A Day On Cedar Avenue & East Lake Street
Spend a day in the two most famous East African neighborhoods in Minneapolis: Cedar Avenue and East Lake Street.
Article by Said Shaiye
You can’t visit Minneapolis without embracing the rich East African cultures that make up its fabric. I’m a transplant to this city, but I’ve always known it was the home of Somalis outside Somalia. You’ll also find other East African countries well represented here (including Ethiopian, Oromo, Kenyan communities), but the Somali diaspora is most noticeable. One thing you should know about Somali people is that we are community oriented and business minded. If you go to a corner of this world, you will find a tightly knit community of Somali people there. You’ll see restaurants and coffee shops and tax return places and any other endeavor you can imagine. Minneapolis just happens to be the greatest concentration of those places outside of East Africa.
So, now that you have a good background into who we are and how we got here, let’s spend a day in the two most famous East African neighborhoods in Minneapolis: Cedar Avenue and East Lake Street.
We’ll break our day into Morning, Midday and Evening, and this itinerary is great for any time of year: summer, fall, and yes, even winter, though you will want to bundle up.
Morning
Start on Cedar Avenue and get a feel for the famous Cedar Riverside neighborhood. It’s best experienced on foot so you can be immersed in the closest thing to being in Somalia without booking an international flight.
For breakfast, I recommend two places: Sagal Restaurant and Coffee and Baarakallah Restaurant Somali Cuisine. I’ve long said that Sagal has the best Somali tea in the city, although this is debatable (depending on who you ask). If you’ve never had it, this will undoubtedly change your life. The sweetness, the spices, the warmth – it’ll make your tastebuds sing. Pair it with some Somali fry bread (Mandasi) or Sambuus (beef samosas) to get the full experience. Make your way to Baarakallah (just a short walk down Cedar Ave) and have yourself a hearty breakfast. I recommend the Chicken Suqaar with Malawax (Somali chicken stew with crepes). You also can’t go wrong with the Boorish – a classic Somali interpretation of Oatmeal with milk and sugar (along with a small drizzle of sesame seed oil, a staple in Somali cuisine).
After you eat, take a walk down to Currie Park behind the Cedar Towers. You’ll walk past the Mixed Blood Theater and the Brian Coyle Community Center. They’re both cultural institutions that have a long, rich history of collaborating with and caring for the East African community in Cedar. You might be lucky to catch a locally produced play at Mixed Blood or a community celebration event at Brian Coyle. You’ll most assuredly find people of all ages having a casual soccer game at Currie Park. As you continue your loop around the Cedar Towers, you’ll eventually come to the Riverside Mall.
This is one of the first proper Somali Malls in the region (along with the 24 Mall and Karmel Mall, both a short drive from Cedar). It’s a self-contained hub of commerce. You’ll find small shops who each specialize in something vital to the East African community in this area: money transfer companies (to send monthly family support back home), travel agents (to visit family back home), clothing stores, rug shops, jewelry stores, restaurants and cafes, and anything else you might need to feel connected to East African culture. The shops are most often ran by aunties and uncles who are well-versed in their wares and trades. You’ll find clothes and accessories here you won’t find anywhere else in the city (except, perhaps, at a different Somali Mall). It’s the best way to get a quick, immersive dive into the vibrant colors and luxurious fabrics of my people.
Afternoon
Between Cedar Ave and East Lake Street is a lesser known (but equally important) neighborhood called Riverside. I suggest stopping at Soomaal House of Art before you make your way to East Lake Street. It’s the only Somali visual arts gallery in the region. They routinely host exhibits of local and visiting Somali visual artists. Walk through the gallery and have a chat with the curators. They’re very knowledgeable (practitioners themselves) and exceedingly welcoming. If you’re lucky, you might catch Abdi Roble, one of the most important and accomplished photographers in the Somali diaspora. He’ll tell you stories you won’t believe, but all of them are true.
Over on East Lake Street, near Bloomington Ave, stop by Halwo Kismayo for dessert. If you’ve never had Halwo before, you’re in for a treat. It’s made of sugar, cornstarch, oil, nutmeg and cardamom. It is extremely sweet and aromatic. You’ll have to pace yourself, as too much can make you sleepy. But it’s always worth it.
From there, head to the Midtown Global Market a few blocks west on East Lake Street. Inside, you’ll find all kinds of restaurants and stores (not just East African, but from all over the world, including a soul food spot). The real attraction here is The Somali Museum. It’s dedicated to Somali history and culture. It features historic artifacts and offers guided tours. They even have a traditional Somali Dance Troupe that you might catch practicing for an upcoming event like Somali Independence Day (July 1st). This museum will also help you understand the migration history and eventual growth of the Somali community in Minneapolis.
After that, head on over to Karmel Mall, the main attraction on East Lake Street. It’s hard to describe this place if you’ve never been there. Words don’t do it justice. It’s a multi-story behemoth packed with every type of store you can imagine. Haircut? You can get one here. Need to pray? There’s a mosque on the top floor. Hungry? They’ve got every type of Somali food in there. Thirsty? You can get tea, coffee, smoothies, ice cream shakes, fresh juice, and more. Sending money to relatives back home? International Money Transfer stores abound. Need clothes for men, women AND children? They’ve got it. Need henna tattoos for special occasion or just because? That’s here, too! This place is the premier attraction and Somali communities from the far-flung rural suburbs (Mankato, Rochester, etc) routinely make the multi-hour drive to Minneapolis just for Karmel Somali Mall. It can be an overwhelming experience, so be sure to pace yourself. Street parking can also be tricky, so take advantage of the attached parking garage.
Evening
You can’t visit Minnesota without visiting one of our 10,000 lakes. From Karmel, several fantastic lakes are a short drive away. I always go to Lake of the Isles to decompress after the vibrant sensory experience of Karmel. It’s next door to a bigger, more touristy lake (Bde Maka Ska), but I prefer Lake of the Isles. A full walk around the lake is about three miles and takes about an hour. If your feet are tired, you can always do what I do: post up on one of the lakeside benches and stare into the water. During the summer, the sun sets come late in the day so you can enjoy several hours of perfect weather. You might even see baby geese waddling about in all their furball cuteness. You’ll definitely see people fishing as that seems to be the preferred leisurely activity in Minnesota. You’ll also see lots of East African people here. I feel I’d be remiss not to mention that, as this article is supposed to focus on it. So, there you go.
Now, for dinner. Let’s head back to Cedar Avenue. We’ve been eating Somali food all day, so it’s time to switch it up. Are you in the mood for Kenyan or Ethiopian? Two of the best restaurants in the city are in Cedar. For Ethiopian, check out Dilla Ethiopian Restaurant (near the Cedar Ave & Riverside Ave intersection). Get some Injera, accompanied with a bevy of sauce options. If you’re traveling with a group, get the meat combination plate or the vegetable combination plate with a side of sambusas. They have plenty of Ethiopian beverages in the cooler.
For Kenyan, hit up TAMU Grill and Catering. I recommend the beef curry, greens and Ugali (similar to Fufu or pounded yam, except made with corn flour instead of cassava, yams or plantains). The Samaki plate is also a hit – a full tilapia fish fried to perfection, accompanied by Ugali, greens and a lovely red sauce. Wash it down with some Kenyan tea!
Well, thanks for visiting Minneapolis. I hope you left with a full stomach and a fuller heart. This place can be magic if you catch it in the right light! You just have to know how to walk the streets like a local.
About the Author
Said Shaiye is an Autistic + ADHD (AuDHD) Somali multidisciplinary artist. He is a MacDowell Fellow & Minnesota State Arts Grant recipient (Melanated Autistic Writing Workshop). The 2nd edition of his Minnesota Book Award Finalist memoir, Are You Borg Now?, was released by Noemi Press in 2025. He has published poetry & prose in Indiana Review, Texas Review, Obsidian, Brittle Paper, Pithead Chapel, 580 Split, and elsewhere.
Website: http://www.saidshaiye.com/